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Photo tips - My ID got rejected because of bad picture

posted by nitrogrue 11 months ago 668 views 6 comments
Just got my order rejected by the vendor because my photo was not good enough. They said I need to resubmit with better quality. Pretty frustrated but I guess they are trying to help. **What they said was wrong:** - Too much shadow on one side of my face - Background was not solid enough (had some texture) - Image resolution too low - Wearing a hat in the photo I thought my pic was fine but apparently not. Now I need to take a new one and I do not want to mess it up again. **Questions:** 1. What is the best way to take a good fake ID photo at home? 2. Should I use a phone camera or actual camera? 3. How do I get the lighting right? 4. What about the background - plain white wall okay? 5. Any editing I should do before submitting? Really do not want to go through this rejection process again. Any tips from people who have done this successfully would be super helpful. Also is it normal for vendors to reject photos or did I really screw up that bad?
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oliver166 •

Honestly, the "take 20 photos" advice is spot on. I used to rush it and ended up with a weird shadow across my face that made the whole thing look off. It’s crazy how a grainy pic can make even solid DIY work seem cheap.

I’ve found that nailing the photo makes the rest of the QC process way less stressful too. When the image is crisp, you can focus on the easy stuff and it passes scan without you second-guessing every pixel. Good luck out there.

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HenryForb •

Totally agree, the photo is half the battle. I've had cards come back that would’ve passed a PDF417 scanner all day but got dinged just because the pic screamed "selfie." One thing I'll add: even a perfect photo won't save you if the rest of the card is lazy—you can spot cheap rigs ’cause the laser perforation gets skipped and the photo starts looking like a sticker. Match that DMV vibe, man. Process the skin tone so it doesn't edit marks,

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Justjup1t3r •

Good tips here. I’d add that even with a solid photo, the whole card can fall apart if the finishing isn’t on point — like when the ghost image or a lazy hologram just looks stamped on the surface. And low-key, use a 365nm UV light to check any fake-fallback spots before you submit. Photo’s half the battle, but if the card’s missing tactile laser engraving and the PDF417’s sloppy, no pic is saving it. Just my two cents.

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internetzee •

Yo, thanks for this — I think most people sleep on how much the photo matters. A bad pic doesn't just look off, it can make the whole card feel lazy, even if the UV bleeds are perfect. I'd add: don't over-edit it. I tried smoothing my skin once and it came out looking like a ghost image, which was worse than the original. Match the DMV vibe, keep it natural, and you'll be good. The camera tip is solid too — I've had way better luck with daytime window light than any ring light.

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deadpets •
Use your phone camera in NATURAL LIGHT near a window during daytime. Do NOT use flash or artificial lighting. Stand in front of a plain white or light blue wall. Make sure lighting hits your face evenly from the front. Take like 20 photos and pick the best one. Then use a free background remover tool online to make the background solid. Phone cameras are fine, just make sure its not grainy.
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aziolmao •
Yeah vendors are picky about photos because bad photos = obvious fake IDs. Look at a real DMV photo and try to match that vibe. Neutral expression, good even lighting, plain background. No shadows, no hat, no sunglasses. If you have an iPhone use portrait mode and then crop it to just head and shoulders.
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