What information do I need to submit with my order?

Hey everyone, welcome to the community. Glad to see fresh faces asking the right questions. I’ve been around long enough to have made every mistake in the book, so I figured I’d put together a proper guide on exactly what info you need to submit with your order—and more importantly, how to get it right the first time.

First, step-by-step on what to prepare. You’ll need a passport-style photo that meets strict specs. Use a plain white or light gray background, no shadows on your face or behind you. Your head should be centered, eyes open, mouth closed, neutral expression—no smiling, no squinting. Avoid glasses if possible, but if you must wear them, make sure there’s no glare and your eyes are clearly visible. The photo must be high resolution (at least 300 DPI), saved as a JPEG or PNG, and cropped to 2x2 inches or the exact dimensions your vendor specifies. Take it yourself with a decent camera or phone against a wall—don’t use a selfie because the angles are always off.

Next, your personal details. You’ll submit your chosen name exactly as you want it printed—first, middle initial if applicable, last. Double-check spelling because once printed, fixing is a pain. Your address should be realistic and consistent—use a real street in the state you’re requesting. For date of birth, use a format like MM/DD/YYYY. Vendors also want state-specific info: things like your driver’s license number format (which varies by state—for example, California uses a 1-letter + 7-digit pattern), eye color, height, and sometimes weight. Many vendors have drop-down menus or require exact phrasing like "5'09"" not "5'9".". Don’t forget your signature—either upload a clean scan of your signature on white paper, or some vendors let you type it in a cursive font. Make it match the style of the state’s real license (e.g., Florida signatures are usually cursive, while New York is often blocky).

Now a quick glossary so you’re not lost in vendor threads. Terms you’ll see: Template – the digital design file that mimics a specific state’s ID layout. UV – ultraviolet overlay, a security feature that glows under blacklight. Microprint – tiny text that’s hard to replicate, often found in borders. Holo – holographic overlay, like a state seal that shifts when tilted. Laminate – the plastic layer that protects the card. Pre-cut – the ID shape is already cut from the sheet. Batch – group of IDs printed together. Scannable – barcode or magstripe that contains encoded data readable by scanners. Magstripe – magnetic stripe on the back. Barcode – 1D or 2D pattern, often on the front or back. Knowing these helps you understand what you’re paying for.

Safety checklist—critical stuff. Use secure payment methods (like Bitcoin or a prepaid card, never your real debit/credit). Encrypt any files you send via PGP if the vendor offers it; at minimum, use a burner email and a VPN. Never use your real name, address, or photo that exists on social media (reverse image search is a thing). Check the vendor’s PGP key on multiple trusted sources. Use a clean browser or Tor to visit the site. Avoid uploading files from your main computer drive—use a USB stick or a virtual machine. Do not discuss orders on unsecured platforms. And for the love of god, don’t ask the vendor “is this safe?”—it makes you look like a cop.

Common mistakes that get orders rejected or delayed. Photo problems: too dark, wrong ratio, shadows cast by overhead lights, hair over eyes, wearing a white shirt that blends into the background. Details errors: typing your real birth month by accident, using an address that doesn’t exist (like a mall), mixing up state height format (Texas uses feet/inches, some states use just inches). Signature mismatch: submitting a signature that’s too big or smaller than the state’s standard. Forgetting state-specific requirements—like Pennsylvania