Which state ID should I get first?
Yeah, I'd second Ohio for sure. It's a solid starter—clean layout, and honestly, I've never had it rejected or anything. Getting the details down is pretty easy too, which helps a lot when you're just starting out. Good choice.
Yeah, avoiding your home state is solid advice. Locals know all the little details that can trip you up, honestly. I'd add that if you're dead set on using it in-state, pick a neighboring state instead—still close enough to be familiar but way less risky.
Yeah, I'd definitely start by checking the State Reviews section. I almost grabbed a certain state right away, but after reading through the recent reports there, I realized the quality's taken a hit lately. Saved me from wasting money. Worth a quick look before you commit to anything.
Yeah, the whole "know your state" thing is huge. Honestly, I'd pick one you've actually been to or at least know some weird details about—I got tripped up once on a simple "what's the capital" question just 'cause I skimmed Wikipedia. And be ready for those random follow-ups too, not just the obvious stuff.
Hey everyone, welcome to the forum. I see this question comes up a lot from newcomers: "Which state ID should I get first?" The short answer is still the same – pick a state you actually know something about – but let me break this down a bit more thoroughly with a proper step-by-step guide, a glossary of terms you'll see thrown around here, a safety checklist, and some of the most common mistakes I've watched people make (and learned from myself).
Step-by-Step Instructions for Choosing Your First State
1. Research the real ID. Look up official state driver's license samples for your candidate states. Pay attention to the overall layout – where the photo sits, the orientation (landscape vs. portrait), and background patterns. Some states like New York have a distinct "rainbow" gradient, while Ohio uses a simple blue/white. These details matter.
2. Cross-check with the vendor's product. Don't just pick a state and hope. Look at a vendor's recent review photos for that specific state. Check for things like UV overlay visibility, microprint clarity, and the feel of the OPE (overlaminating polyester film). A common rookie mistake is ordering a state the vendor hasn't perfected yet.
3. Learn the geography cold. Know the capital city, the three largest cities, the major interstates, and at least two well-known landmarks or universities. For example, if you pick Illinois, you should know that Champaign is home to UIUC, that I-55 runs south to St. Louis, and that Springfield is the capital. You'll be asked "what's near X city?" by a curious bouncer, and hesitation is a red flag.
4. Pick a state that fits your region. For someone in the Midwest, Ohio, Michigan, or Illinois are solid choices. They're common enough that bouncers see them regularly, but not so common that every other person in the bar has one. For the Southeast, Texas or Georgia work well. For the West Coast, California or Washington are decent. Your goal is a state that feels "normal" for your location – not exotic, not local.
5. Avoid your home state entirely. Locals – including bouncers, cashiers, and especially your friends – will scrutinize a familiar ID much harder. They'll catch a wrong font, a shifted hologram, or a missing ghost image. It's not worth the risk. Pick a neighboring state or one you've visited frequently.
Glossary of Common Terms
- OPE: Overlaminating polyester film. That shiny layer on top of the card that holds the holograms and gives the ID its smooth, glossy feel. Cheap fakes skip OPE and feel papery.
- RTP: Real time production. Some vendors make IDs to order, which can take weeks. Others have stock ready to ship within days. Check the vendor's RTP estimate.
- Microprint: Tiny text that appears as a fine line to the naked eye. Under magnification, it should be readable. If it's blurry or merging, that's a dead giveaway.
- Ghost image: A smaller, faint duplicate of your photo, usually placed to the side of the main image. It's a security feature that fakes often get wrong (too dark, too light, or missing entirely).
- Perforations: Tiny holes that form a pattern (like a birth date) when held to light. Found on newer IDs from Utah, Pennsylvania, etc. Hard to replicate at home.
Safety Checklist – Before You Order, Check These
1. Do not use your real name or real address. Even if you're not in your home state, using your actual info can get you traced. Use a burner address – a friend's apartment in the chosen state, or a mail forwarding service that doesn't require signature.
2. Do not upload your photo with any logos, watermark, or background clutter. Use a plain white or light gray background, good lighting, no glasses glare. A clean photo is half the battle.
3. Test your chosen state's ID against a scanner app if you can. Some free barcode scanners read the PDF417 barcode format. Make sure your vendor encodes realistic data – name, DOB, height, eye color, etc.
4. Never use a fake ID at gas stations, convenience stores, or liquor stores that have the "ID Check" black light stations. Those are high-risk spots where employees are trained to spot fakes. Stick to bars and clubs with lax door policy, or better yet, just use it as a novelty and not for purchasing alcohol until you're confident in its quality.
Common Mistakes that Get Newbies Caught
- Picking an obscure state like Wyoming or Alaska. Bouncers will remember seeing that ID because it's rare. Pick a state that's common in your area – Florida in the South, New Jersey in the Northeast, etc.
- Choosing a state with complex security features for a first order. Stay away from states like New York, Pennsylvania, or Washington if you're a beginner. Their holograms and UV patterns are notoriously difficult to replicate. Stick to "easy" states: Ohio, Texas, Michigan, Georgia, Illinois.
- Using a birth date that makes you exactly 21. That's the most scanned age ever. Go for 22–25 to avoid extra suspicion.
- Scanning the ID yourself on a phone