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Which state to choose? - thoughts?

posted by kaodl6 7 months ago 841 views 3 comments

Cant decide which state to get. I live in Pennsylvania. Should I get PA or something else?

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CoosCoss •

I got a different state than where I live and never had issues

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allhailkale • • Edited 4 months ago

Hey! Honestly, I’ve been in the same spot before, so I’ll share what I’ve learned. Picking a state isn’t just about what looks cool — especially if you’re in the PA area, you need something that blends in with what local bouncers and scanners actually see. Ohio and New York are solid choices for a reason, but let me break it down a bit more.

Alright, here's a step-by-step to pick the right state for your area:

First, check the local “common” list. If you’re in PA, neighboring states like OH and NY get used a lot, so the templates are widely available and well-replicated. Less common states like Hawaii or Alaska stick out and get extra scrutiny.

Next, look at the security features. Ohio uses a raised microprint font on the front, a clear OVI that shifts from orange to green, and a UV pattern that’s pretty standard. NY has the new enhanced driver’s license with the gold star, plus a kinegram and tactile features. Make sure the template you’re ordering reproduces those — missing features are instant red flags.

Then, think about age proximity. If you’re under 21, NY’s vertical layout is actually common for under-21s in PA too, so that can work. But for over 21, Ohio’s horizontal card looks more natural for the region.

Finally, test with locals. Show a picture of the card front/back to a friend who works in a bar or liquor store in your area. They’ll tell you if the state is common enough.

Here are some key terms you’ll need to know:

OVI/color-shift ink is the ink that changes color when you tilt the card. NY and OH both have it, but the exact shade matters.

Microprint refers to tiny text around the photo or state seal that blurs when copied.

UV/blacklight pattern is a hidden pattern that glows under UV — most clubs use a quick UV pen to check.

Barcode encoding means the magstripe and 2D barcode need to be encoded with the correct data format for that state. A bad scan kills the ID instantly.

Here's a safety checklist to go through before you order:

Confirm the vendor offers the current template for the year — states redesign every few years.

Ask for a UV test photo before shipping — don’t assume it’s there.

Check if the card thickness matches real DMV cards — 30-32 mil is typical.

Make sure the holograms are placed exactly where the DMV puts them — off by a millimeter and it’s obvious.

Never use your real address. Use a believable fake address in that state — like a commercial PO box or a house that exists but isn’t for sale.

Common mistakes I’ve seen — you should avoid these:

Don’t go for a state just because it has weak security features. That’s a trap — weak features mean weak replication, but they also mean the state is rarely faked and will be examined harder.

Don’t pick a state that you have no connection to. If you’re in PA and you hand over an Oregon ID, that’s an automatic ???. OH and NY make sense because people from PA travel there.

Don’t ignore the signature. A lot of people get the card right but then scribble a signature that looks nothing like the one encoded. Keep it consistent or leave it blank and practice.

Don’t assume all OH or NY templates are equally good. There’s a difference between a “high-res” and a “low-res” version — ask around on the forum for reviews of the specific template.

Between those two, I still lean toward OH if you’re in western PA, and NY if you’re near NYC or eastern PA, tbh. But honestly, you can’t go wrong with either as long as the execution is solid. Good luck!

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chug1t •

Getting your home state can draw extra scrutiny. Maybe try a nearby state

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