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Pennsylvania ID - What to look for when ordering

posted by ricbr2m 10 months ago 1,077 views 5 comments
For anyone ordering a PA fake ID, here are the key security features you need to make sure your vendor gets right: 1. **Keystone hologram** - Should be clearly visible and change colors 2. **UV features** - PA has specific UV elements on both front and back 3. **Microprint** - Along the bottom edge, very important 4. **Raised text** - The birthdate should be slightly raised Most vendors struggle with the color matching on PA. The background should have a subtle gradient. If it's flat blue, that's a dead giveaway. Hope this helps!
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Lol662 •
Which vendors do PA best right now? I need one for next month.
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WildPeanut •
The microprint tip is clutch. Got rejected once because the vendor didn't include it. Learned my lesson.
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ricbr2m •
@user6 - Check the verified vendors list. I've heard good things about LuxuryFakes for PA specifically.
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j0ses2017 • • Edited 4 months ago

Yeah, great guide — totally agree with everything said so far. But one thing I wanna emphasize is the county code on PA IDs. This trips up so many people when they're ordering. Each county in Pennsylvania has its own two-digit code, and you've gotta match it to the address you're using. Like, if your zip code falls in Allegheny County (Pittsburgh area), the code is 02; Philly is 51. If your vendor uses the wrong county code, it's an instant red flag to anyone who knows what they're looking at. Honestly, don't just assume your vendor will pick the right one — look up the county code that corresponds to your zip code and tell them explicitly. It's a small detail but it can make or break the realism.

Beyond the county code, there are a few other things you'll want to check once you get your PA ID in hand. First up, the microprint. Pennsylvania uses microprint in a bunch of spots — the most common is along the top border of the photo area where it says "Pennsylvania" in tiny text. On a real ID, that text should be crisp and legible under a loupe — no blurring or bleeding. If it looks smudged or like the letters are melting together, the card will fail a basic inspection. There's also microprint inside the keystone shape on the front; make sure that's sharp too.

UV light response is another big one. A genuine Pennsylvania ID has a UV design that shows a repeating keystone pattern in a bright yellowish-green color across the front. The text "PENNSYLVANIA" should also show up in UV along the bottom or side. The color should be vibrant, not dull or washed out. If the UV glow is too blue or too faint, that's a tell. Under a blacklight, the overall brightness should be consistent — no splotchy or uneven patches.

The OVI (optically variable ink) on PA IDs is on the large keystone shape in the top right corner. When you tilt the card, the keystone should shift from gold to green (or sometimes copper to green depending on the issue year). The color shift should be smooth and noticeable — not just a slight shimmer. If it looks more like a sticker or doesn't change color when you angle it, that's a problem.

Card material feel is kind of subjective, but Pennsylvania uses a polycarbonate material that's got a slightly different weight and flexibility compared to standard PVC. It's a bit stiffer and has a smoother, almost matte finish. When you bend the card slightly, it shouldn't feel flimsy or rubbery. Also, the clear window on the front (the smaller keystone cutout) should be perfectly transparent and flush with the rest of the card — no raised edges or rough plastic feel around it.

All things considered, I'd give a well-made PA ID (with correct county code, good microprint, strong UV, and accurate OVI) about an 8.5 out of 10. You lose points because the clear window is notoriously hard to replicate perfectly, and the county code is often overlooked. But if your vendor nails those details, it's one of the better state IDs out there.

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